If you are using ribbon cord, or an elastic ponytail holder for your button loop, baste the button loop at the top center of the back piece the same way you did for the tassel. Both the tassel and the button loop should be facing in toward the body of the back piece, and they should be basted securely within the entire area of the seam allowance, to ensure that they do not get skewed during the sewing process. If you feel more comfortable basting the entire button loop down and then removing the basting later, that is a fine way to manage this part, and is a good idea for beginners. Note: I learned about using an elastic ponytail holder from Marie Alton, who designed a chatelaine pattern that I made. To learn more about Marie's work, her Chatelaine pattern, and her upcoming website, please email Marie at sredeluxe@home.com.

If you would like to make a button loop from Size 5 Pearle cotton as shown in the example in Step 13, start with a piece of Pearle cotton that is at least 22" long. To figure out the correct length for the button loop, I usually baste the button to a piece of scrap fabric, and then use another piece of fabric to create a test loop that slips easily over the button. It is better to have a button loop that is a little bit too loose, than to have one that is too tight. Once I know how big I need the loop to be, I find a pencil, pen, small screwdriver, piece of dowel, etc., that approximates that size to use as a loop mold. You might even want to use a piece of paper that has been rolled and taped. I have found that a small sewing machine screwdriver that I've had for about 20 years is a good size, and easy to use.

Knot your Pearle cotton and come up through the fabric just "inside" the stitching line on the seam allowance. You want the base of the button loop to be caught in the line of machine stitching for reinforcement. Wrap the Pearle cotton over the screwdriver (or your loop mold of choice), and take the thread back down through the fabric where you first came up. Bring the thread back up, over the screwdriver and back down again, so that you have two loops. Knot your thread on the back and remove the screwdriver. Note: Remember to knot your thread on the back before you remove the screwdriver, otherwise your loops could slip and they would not be of equal size.

Remove your screwdriver (or loop mold of choice) and begin to make buttonhole stitches around the loop. Note: If you are holding the button loop in the air, the buttonhole stitching will twist. If you make the buttonhole stitching while holding the button loop flat to the fabric with your thumb, the buttonhole stitching will remain flat, and result in a very pretty loop. Sometimes, however, the twisted look is preferable. You may even choose to use a row of single crochet or tatting to finish your button loop instead of making buttonhole stitches.

When you have finished your buttonhole stitching, take the needle down through the fabric and knot. Then fold the button loop toward the inside of the back piece and pin or baste. You may choose to actually baste the button loop in place with hand stitching before you stitch the pieces together with your machine, and then remove the hand stitching later. This is a good idea for beginners, so that the button loop does not become skewed during machine stitching.