Note: Check to make sure that the seam allowance for the piping is ½". If it is greater than that amount, trim off the excess by laying seam allowance of the piping on the edge of a book. Use a small, see-through ruler to measure a ½" seam allowance and mark with chalk. Then simply trim off the seam allowance to ½". It may be necessary to clip the seam allowance of the piping at frequent intervals, to allow it to fit the curve of the needlebook smoothly. Avoid the temptation to cut straight in from the edge of the piping to the stitching and first make sure that your clips are not on the straight of grain of the fabric-they should be on the bias in order to avoid fraying of the fabric. If the fabric used for your piping is bias fabric, then it is OK to cut straight in from the edge of the seam allowance to the stitching at 3/8" intervals. Otherwise, regardless of the direction of your clips, make sure that they cut across the bias of the piping fabric, and not in the same direction as the grain of the fabric.

Start attaching the piping at the side of the needlebook, leaving a tail of piping of about 2" long. Aligning the edge of the seam allowance of the piping with the cut edge of the fabric, ease the piping around the needlebook, basting in place by hand about 1/8" from the line of stitching next to the piping. Avoid the temptation of picking up your work at the edge and holding it in the air as you baste. Instead, lay the pieces on the table, coaxing the piping into place with your fingers, and making a basting stitch while the pieces are flat on the table. There are two reasons for this: 1) The weight of the pieces being suspended will cause the cut edges of the fabric to stretch out of shape, and your needlebook is likely to be misshapen when turned right side out. 2) The edges of your fabric are on the bias, and therefore very stretchy. The edges of your piping may be on the straight of grain (as in the example) or of a stronger fabric than the needlebook fabric, and therefore will overpower the bias edges. This may result in stretched areas in the fabric that later cause ripples and lumps. I lay the pieces on the table in front of me, with the seam allowance close to me. I coax about an inch of the piping into place, and then make basting stitches. As you match the edge of the piping with the edge of the inner pieces, you will notice that the piping itself begins to look a little rippled and lumpy. This is a good thing! The piping is just crouching to a smaller space while it is being basted and stitched, so that it can return to it's correct size once the needlebook is turned right side out.

The basting stitches should be about 1/8" from where you will be sewing the piping to the pieces. If you are a more experienced sewer, you may feel comfortable stitching the piping to the needlebook with the zipper foot and minimal pinning. Be very careful not to stretch the piping. When the piping becomes stretched, it snaps back after sewing, causing lumps and wrinkles along the edge of the needlebook.

Use your zipper foot to sew the piping to the fabric. Insert the machine needle into the beginning of the piping at the seam line of the inside pieces, and stitch on the line of sewing next to the piping. The line of stitching you are now making will be your guide for attaching this piece to the embellished piece.

As you sew around the edge of the needlebook, make sure that the edge of the zipper foot is aligned with the stitching on the piping so that the needle will follow that stitching. At the same time, guide the piping with the fingers of your left hand, to gently "snug" the piping to the zipper foot as it feeds slowly through the machine. Be careful not to sew over your fingers. Aside from making a stain on your needlebook, this hurts a lot. Ask me how I know. :-)

When sewing around the curve, go slowly. Take a few stitches, lift the presser foot, and slightly turn the fabric. This will ensure a smooth curve around your needlebook, instead of a series of straight and jagged lines of stitching. Turning the fabric without lifting the presser foot will stretch the bias edges of the needlebook. The stretched edges will then snap back after the needlebook is made, causing wrinkles. Stopping frequently to lift the presser foot gives the bias edge of the fabric a chance to relax.