Blackwork Embroidery
by AskSREBrad
Time keeps on slipping, slipping, slipping...
Time is short.
Time was not on my side.
So this month you get the highlights!
Blackwork Embroidery Bullet Points -
- Blackwork Embroidery is a counted thread stitch, worked on even weave
linen or other fabric.
Commonly it is black thread worked on white (gee, that must be why it's
called Blackwork). There are examples of red, green, gold, and blue on
historical blackwork pieces.
- Archeological digs in Egypt (insert Steve Martin joke here) date Blackwork
back to the 1300's and even earlier.
- Chaucer speaks of Blackwork in his Canterbury Tales -
Of white, too, was the dainty smock she wore,
Embroidered at the collar all about
With coal-black silk, alike within and out
- The Elizabethans called it "Spanysshe Work" (love that spelling)
because of it was thought to be of Spanish Origin.
- Blackwork Embroidery became a big smash (so the legend goes) when Catherine
of Arragon (1485-1536) married Henry the VIII in 1509
(Catherine was the first of Henry's six wives. Henry was actually Catherine's
second husband, she married his older brother first. Unfortunately the
older brother died before he could succeed the crown. Catherine was then
promised to 10 year old Henry. What every 10 year old wants for his birthday,
don't you think, his dead older brother's wife)
- Catherine (born in Spain to Spanish Monarch's Ferdinand and Isabella)
was a great embroiderer and she quickly taught her court the Spanysshe
Work she knew from home.
- Blackwork became the rage. Everyone was doing it.
- One of the reasons Blackwork was so popular (besides the fact the Queen
was doing it, so we must do it as well) was the fact that it emulated lace,
which at the time was highly taxed. Therefore it was sort of the bargain
basement version of lace.
- At first Blackwork was seen mainly on undershirt collars and cuffs.
You can see it peeking out in pictures of the day (more on that later).
Because it was used on these parts of clothing it needed to be able to
be viewed from the front as well as the back. This led to the wide use
of the double running stitch, which is the same on both sides.
- For those of you keeping score at home we are now in the Tudor Period
(1485-1603)
- One of the quaint customs of the day was to entertain your guests in
your bedroom (the boudoir, I'm sure). While you had everyone milling about
your sleeping quarters, you, as a remarkable embroiderer, wanted everyone
to notice your fabulous embroidery skills. So, everyone began to think
of other places (besides undershirts) to show off that Blackwork that everyone
was doing. Soon, bedcovers, door covers, and nightcaps were covered with
Blackwork. Then someone figured out that since you were in your bedroom,
you needed some special night clothes to wear and guess what
they
put Blackwork on that as well.
- How do we know everyone was wearing Blackwork embroidered clothes?
Very few actual pieces survive (most pieces still around were ecclesiastical
clothing) because of the harsh lyes used in soaps as well as what they
used for black dye. Soot, vitriol, brown wool, "allom", iron
fillings, and more lye were just some of the items put in the dye. Most
pieces rotted quickly (this was even before the big blue marking ink debate).
- So again, I asked, how do we know everyone was wearing Blackwork? Four
words, Hans Hobein, the Younger (yes, there was a Hans Holbein, the Elder
who was a painter, too, but we're not talking about him today). Hans Hobein
(1497-1543) was the court painter and he left behind galleries upon galleries
of paintings depicting portraits of people and their clothing (guess he
didn't do nudes). His work is an excellent source of Blackwork, with so
much detail that you can actually recreate a Blackwork pattern from his
paintings. You can find an online Holbein gallery here.
- We owe so much gratitude to Hans for depicting Blackwork, that the
double running stitch so extensively used in Blackwork is also called the
Holbein stitch (gee, when I grow up, I want a stitch named after me).
- Blackwork went crazy when the Elizabethans came around.
- Again, those of you keeping score at home, we are now in the Elizabethan
Period (1558-1603), a sub part of the broader Tudor Period
- During this period, Blackwork migrated from just cuffs and collars
to whole entire sleeves and bodices. Also, slanted lines are introduced
into the work (before this, Blackwork was only done in right angles, which
gave that very geometric shape to it).
- A favorite Elizabethan technique was to outline a shape of a fruit,
leaf, or a flower (sometimes all three) and then fill in the outline with
geometric Blackwork Patterns.
- You thought working out of a pattern book was a 20th century thing.
Well, in the 16th century, Germany invented the printing press and Blackwork
pattern books were printed. People of the day copied Blackwork patterns
out of these books with the "prick and pounce" method of transferring.
They would prick holes in the printed page and then pounce over it with
a powder substance. This is why we don't see many 16th century Blackwork
pattern books today. All that pricking was murder on the paper.
- Blackwork continued to be popular into the 17th Century. A painting
of the Virgin and St. Anne by Francis de Zurbaran (1598-1664) shows the
two embroidering. Looking closely, the Virgin's piece is Blackwork (can't
for the life of me find an online picture of that one, sorry folks)
- Counted work of all types became less popular starting with the 18th
century. Embroidery books of the day do not mention Blackwork at all. Victorians
found little interest in counted work.
- The 20th century brought about a mini revival in Blackwork. Osyth Wood
was a notable embroiderer starting in 1925 through 1960. Though she used
many forms techniques of embroidery, she left several exquisite pieces
of Blackwork to the Embroiderers' Guild.
- The 1960's brought about change to the rules of embroidery (much like
it changed many "rules"). No longer were people encouraged to
adhere to rigid guidelines of embroidery, but instead were encouraged to
expand the boundary of traditional work. Blackwork became a way of shading
portraits and pictures. Entire character studies are done in Blackwork.
The rule of looking the same on both sides is no longer steadfast. Instead,
Blackwork is seen as a study in light and dark. Open work produces a "light"
look to the piece, while dense stitches will produce a "dark"
look.
- What stitches do you need to know to do Blackwork
(Links will take you to Sherry Boggin's Website)
o Backstitch
o Double Running
Stitch (Holbein Stitch) (from the Blackwork Embroidery Archives)
o Cross
Stitch and it's variants
o Reversible Cross
Stitch (Jill Martz's Excellent Diagram of this Stitch)
o Eye
Stitch
o Double
Cross Stitch
- How do you incorporate Silk Ribbon Embroidery Into Blackwork? You can
introduce color, gold, red, green, or blue with the Black. You can stitch
Spider Web Roses,
like the example on the Swap Page (you
could even put a Spider Web Rose on the Back side of the piece, therefore
recreating the reversible work). You could put Lazy
Daisy Flowers, Straight
Stitches, Bullion
stitches, or whatever you feel like. To keep within the spirit of Blackwork,
though, put an equal number of flowers on the piece, keeping the balanced
look. Play with the light and dark aspect of the piece, find spaces that
you could fill in with ribbon.
- That's it, all he wrote. Enjoy the pictures of our swap. They can be
found here.
- Oh, you want links. Well, there's TONS of Blackwork on the net. Here
are a few choice ones:
http://www.blackworkarchives.com/
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Acropolis/2344/dorren.htm
http://www.x-calibredesigns.co.uk/how_to.htm
http://www.x-calibredesigns.co.uk/blackwork_class.htm
http://www.geocities.com/monstonitrus/a_and_s/blackwork/blackwork.html
http://crossstitch.miningco.com/cs/blackwork/
http://needlearts.dm.net/stitches/double-run.html
http://www.nwlink.com/~dbmeek/hanscan.html
(Holbein Paintings)
http://www.info-tech.com.au/lindagryllis/blackedi.html
http://tasha.htmlplanet.com/SCA/blackwork.html
http://www.jmddesigns.co.nz/bwhis.htm
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/headwear/coifmake.html
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/black-bib.html
(List of Blackwork Books)
http://www.kreinik.com/HTML/freebies/free_blue_tulips.htm
(Blackwork in Blue)
http://www.lacestudio.co.uk/blackwork.htm
http://www.white-works.com/blackwork.htm
http://www.planetc.com/users/derwyddon/blkwrk.html
http://aeg.atlantia.sca.org/projects/howto/blackwork/
(Patterns)
http://www.embroiderersguild.org.uk/stitch/infocus/blackwork.html
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Acropolis/4756/blckwrk.htm
http://www.skinnersisters.com/stitch/issue1/
http://website.lineone.net/~lbsc/blackwor.htm
http://website.lineone.net/~lbsc/bwplus.htm
http://www.island.net/~doerksen/needle.html
http://virtualgardehttp:blackwork.htmns.net/SafeHaven/lessons/blackwork.htm
http://needlepoint.about.com/library/weekly/aa120401.htm?terms=Blackwork+Embroidery
http://crossstitch.about.com/cs/blackwork/index.htm?terms=Blackwork+Embroidery
http://needlepoint.about.com/cs/blackwork/index.htm?terms=Blackwork+Embroidery
Thus spoke SRE Brad.
Tune in next time for more wisdom.
Copyright 2002. All Rights Reserved
This article is owned wholly by Brad A Watkins
and the Silkribbon@yahoogroups.com Mailing List
Article may be printed for personal use only.