Get out your vibrant colors, we are heading South (no, not Florida, farther than that), for that
tropical sensation Brazilian Embroidery. Evoking the "carnivale" atmosphere of Brazil, this
embroidery style is known for its flashy colors and dense stitching.

If you are going to talk about Brazilian Embroidery, you have to talk about Rayon (no, not Enron, Rayon, the fiber). Rayon is the key element in this style of stitching. In 1664, the earliest known recorded
mention of an artificial fiber was made. Robert Hook, an English Naturalist (why a Naturalist was
looking into artificial is beyond me), suggested that a fiber could be produced that would be
equal to or even better than silk. But alas, Robert could not come up with a way of making this fiber.

Cut to 1855, still in England, a Swiss Chemist named Audemares was granted the first patent for
"artificial silk" This fiber was made by dissolving the fibrous inner bark of the mulberry tree which chemically modified it to produce cellulose. He then took needles, dipped them into the solution
and drew out the threads. The one thing he missed, though, was to replicate how the silkworms did it; extruding the liquid through a small hole (how gross is that?)

Now move along 25 or so years and meet Sir Joseph W. Swan. Sir Swan (say that five times fast)
was an English electrician and a chemist (egads, the money to be made) who became fascinated with Edison's incandescent lamp. With an idea of forcing an Audemare-type liquid through fine holes
(aaah, those silkworms again) into a coagulating bath (why does the production of fiber sound
like a horror movie), Sir Swan was able to create a carbon filament. These worked so well that
Edison used them in his production of electric lamps.

Now you are asking how does this relate to sewing? Well, Sir Swan asked Mrs. Sir Swan
(or is that Lady Swan) if she would like to whip up a few samples of crochet using this fiber.
She agreed and they exhibited all of this at the England Exhibition 1885. Unfortunately, for us,
Sir Swan was much more interested in the electric lamp (he was an electrician, for heaven's sake)
so he abandoned the textile side of his new fiber.

Hang on to your hats, folks, we are getting close to the big one!

Meet Count Hilaire de Chardonnet, who lived in, you guessed it, France. It is 1889 and Count Chardonnet is at the Paris Exhibition showing off his fabrics made from "artificial silk". This caused
a huge sensation (kind of like falling in love) throughout Paris. So much of a sensation that in 1891, the Count built the FIRST commercial rayon producing plant (factory, not flora) in Besancon, France.
This made Count Hilaire de Chardonnet (say it with me) "the father of the rayon industry".

Here is a tidbit to throw around at your next cocktail party; even though Rayon is man made it is not synthetic. That is because it is made from cellulosic material.

Ok, now let's go to Brazil, circa 1960. One Mrs. Elisa Hirsch Maia, known as Madame Maia
(I want to now be known as Master SREBrad), was playing around dyeing native cellulose
(not sure where you buy native cellulose) because she just was bored to tears with the cotton
threads and floss that were then available. In doing this, Madame Maia created a whole new style
of embroidery, Brazilian.

The Varicor company, based in Brazil, began to produce multi colored Rayon threads. These threads caught on so quickly and became so popular in Brazil that Brazilians called it Vari-Cor Embroidery (clever, huh). Soon the rest of the world discovered this type of stitching as well, but because it was so associated with Brazil, it became known as Brazilian Embroidery.

Varicor is no more, but EdMar in the United States is the largest manufacturer of Rayon Threads, today.

Brazilian Embroidery uses stitches found in all other forms of embroidery, so what makes Brazilian Embroidery different from your everyday basic embroidery?

Well, we have been talking about Rayon, so that's the first and foremost difference; the use of Rayon. Other differences that stand out in this art form are the three dimensional effect (stitches built upon
stitches and "raised" stitches that are anchored to the fabric), use of bright colors, and filling the background of the motif with fine a "growth" of thin threads. This density of design is the most striking aspect of the work.

So what do you need to practice Brazillian Embroidery? Rayon thread, Milliner or Straw Needles
(these type of needles are the same diameter throughout the entire length of the needle, therefore
making it easier to slide bullion wraps off the needle), a hoop (yes, it's best to hoop this one), and
some material on which to work your magic (doesn't have to be an even weave fabric).

"But, AskSREBrad, I don't know what stitches to use", you say. You must know by now that AskSREBrad always answers your questions (except that one rather impertinent one) so here are
the more popular stitches (with hand dandy links to instructions on Sharon Boggon's Stitch Directory))

Bullion Stitch (or Knot)
Cast on Bullion
Double Cast On Stitch
Stem Stitch
Outline Stitch
Couching
Detached Chain
French Knot

"Thank you, AskSREBrad, another question; is there anything I need to know when working with
Rayon Threads?" My you are inquisitive today, aren't you? Yes, there are a few things. Sit back,
grab that beverage of choice, and relax while we talk about the twist (Cue, Chubby Checker song)

Most yarns, threads, and flosses have what is called an "S" twist, but Brazilian Rayons have a
counter clockwise "Z" twist. How do find out which way your thread swings? One method is to
hold the thread in your left hand between your thumb and index finger. With your right hand,
twist the fiber to the right. If it tightens up, it is an "S" twist, if it loosens, it is a "Z" twist. Similiary,
if you twist it to the left (and shake it all about) a "Z" twist will tighten and an "S" twist will loosen.
Righty Tighty="S" Lefty Tighty="Z"

Why this is important is because when you are going to town on those beautiful, bountiful boullions,
you will want to wrap in the correct direction (wrap me the right way, baby). For all right handers,
you will wrap toward your body on a "Z" twist fiber and away from your body on a "S" twist.
Reverse this technique for all you lefties.

Because Rayon is available in different thicknesses, it is not meant to be split. Only the very thickest thread, which has some 16 strands in it is sometimes split into smaller threads. Key to size, the thicker
the thread, the thicker the flower (size does matter).

When you are developing your design for a Brazilian piece, remember, dimension, dimension, dimension. You do this by layering your work. A good rule of thumb is to follow this course of stitching:

1) Main flowers
2) Flower Buds
3) Leaves
4) Stems and Main Branches
5) Fine growth (usually in a lighter shade than your main branches)
6) Finally, small flowers (often called field flowers) in French knots or Beads.

Ok, now you want to see some samples of Brazilian Work. There are not a lot freebies on the net,
but there are lots of pictures for inspiration, check out some of these sites:

http://www.geocities.com/Wellesley/Atrium/4226/tlc1.html
http://www.edmar-co.com/pk.htm
http://www.vc.net/annag/default.html
http://www.charismathreads.com/
http://www.nordicneedle.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&
Store_Code=NN&Category_Code=A03.00.00 http://www.designsbyathread.com/designs_2000.htm
http://www.designsbyathread.com/Yiours%20in%20Stitches.htm
http://www.blackberrylane.com.au/begginners.htm
http://fgdesigns.heritageshoppe.com/designs/designs.html
http://www.jdr-be.com/JDROLDFAVORITES/newdesigns.htm

How about more bullion stitch help?

http://www.heirloomembroidery.com/bullionstitch.html
http://www.needlearts.com/articles/article_4/article_4.html
http://www.coatscrafts.co.uk/en/1/funapr.html
http://www.americanfolkarts.com/BullionKnot.htm
http://www.caron-net.com/classes/classmayfiles/clasmay2.html
http://www.embroiderersguild.org.uk/stitch/stitches/bullion.html
http://www.parddu.net/stitches.html

Want some good tips on Brazilian Embroidery? Go here:

http://www.geocities.com/Wellesley/Atrium/4226/index.html

Want to know where you can buy some Rayon thread? Here are the silkribbon@yahoogroups.com member vendors who carry the goods.

The Dyepot
Jenny June Fancy Work

Want to know some books to bone up on the subject (my you're getting pushy) Here's a few:

Books by Maria A. Freitas:
Apples to Zinnias
The Art of Dimensional Embroidery

Books by Ruth A. Maryott
Forever Flowers Garden Quilt
Joy of Three Dimensional Embroidery
Borders, Bugs, and Other Fun Things

JDR Brazillian Embroidery Book - Ria Quik Ferrel
Take a Stitch - Rosalie Wakefield
North American Flowers in Three Dimensional Embroidery - Mary Kurbis
Brazillian Embroidery Instructions - Barbara Dimke Johnson
Leaves - Threads in Bloom (Sharon Shetley)
A-Z of Bullions - Published by Inspirations Magazine
Brazilian Three Dimensional Embroidery - Rosie Montague

That is it, AskSREBrad is spent. Now the challenge is for the silkribbon list to combine the wonderful worlds of Brazilian and Silk Ribbon Embroidery. You can keep tabs on the swap here.