Shadow Work Embroidery is the art of illusion. No, David Copperfield isn’t performing Shadow Work
at his next magical appearance. Shadow Work is an embroidery style that has a rich history from a
country known for its colorful weaving and textiles. It is deceptively simple in its execution. Unfortunately, it is an oft overlooked style of embroidery and it offers a unique opportunity to add to your silk ribbon embroidery.

Here is the nuts and bolts definition of Shadow Work embroidery: “a technique in which stitching takes place on the reverse of a transparent fabric, the design showing through to the front in a very subtle manner”. Huh, you say? But, where did it come from?

Let’s go back a bit.

No, further than that.

I’m talking centuries, here.

It is conventionally believed that Shadow Work or shadow stitching originated in Japan and China. Although when it spread to India, it really grew as an art form. India was always known for its rich and colorful textiles and in that country textiles were rooted in ritual and customs. The ordered Universe was considered to be one continuous fabric with its grid pattern of warp and woof over which is painted life in all its cycles, illusions, and dreams. As far back as the 3rd Century BC, greek traveller Megasthenes (bet he was a hit at all the hot parties) talked of the “fine flowered muslins of India”. Legend has it that the Chikan (literally translated as Embroidery) work was introduced by Nur Jahan, the beautiful wife of Mughal emperor, Jahangir. The capital city of Utter Pradesh, Luknow perfected and became widely known for its Chikan Work.

Chikan Work (or Chikankari) is composed of many stitches and designs. Lace work, openwork ground
(called jali, an effect of drawn thread work achieved by not drawing out any but using finely stitched buttonholes that are tightened together to effect a net), tiny raised flowers similiar to French knots, and flat stem stitch are all used in Chikan. The traditional motifs are of creeper, vine, flowers, foliage, mango, almond, parrot, and peacock are achieved with these stitches. A variation of Chikan Work is the bakhia, which is Shadow Work. Bakhia is done in herringbone stitch and worked on the reverse side of the fabric,
what we conventionally call Shadow Work today. Often the front side is the design is produced with tiny backstitches over the shadow to give a sharper appearance. Another bakhia technique is to cut out tiny flowers and leaves and applique them to the wrong side of the fabric.

Chikan Work still flourishes today in Lucknow. You can find many examples of this exquisite work in the local markets of the area. Chikan Work can even be seen on runway models of famous Indian couture designers such as Muzaffar Ali and his wife Meera, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosia (whose Chikan Work were seen on Dame Judi Dench at the 1999 Oscars) and Tarun Tahiliani, (the “high priest of Indian Fashion”).

From India, Shadow Work spread throughout the word. It can be found in portraits from the Middle Ages and on noble ladies' apparel from the courts of Burgundy. Today Shadow Work is loved by Martha Pullen (heirloom embroiderist, extradonaire), who features it in almost all of her magazines and Marsha J. Michler who published Shadow Work Embroidery: With 108 Iron-on Transfer Patterns. (ISBN# 0486402894). Many patterns even exist for creating Shadow Work with your sewing machine and embroidery machines.

What? You want more books? How about these (check your local library or needlework store):

Silken Inspirations : Shadow Work Embroidery Designs
by Allison Seils (ISBN# 0964061600)

Designs for Shadow Work Embroidery and Fine Embroidery
by Donna Krezelak. (No ISBN# Available)

Designs for Shadow Work Embroidery and Fine Embroidery Book 2
By Lane Edwards (No ISBN# Available)

Designs for Shadow Work Embroidery and Fine Embroidery Book 3
By Lane Edwards (No ISBN# Available)

Shadow Work, The Easy Way
By Martha Pullen. (No ISBN# Available)

A Treasury of Shadow Work Designs for Heirloom Sewing
by Julia Golson (No ISBN# Available)

White Work
by Carter Houck (ISBN# 0486236951)

French Hand Sewing by Machine - The Second Book (contains Shadow Work Monograms)
by Martha Pullen (No ISBN# Available)

Shadow Redwork (Gee, you can combine our first swap with our second and save time)
By Alex Anderson (ISBN 1-57120-156-4)

Also check magazines such as Inspirations, Martha Pullen's Sew Beautiful, Australian Smocking and Embroidery, Threads, Creative Machine Embroidery, and Australian Embroidery and Cross Stitch.If you are still looking for pattern ideas, redwork patterns, coloring books, many Dover Press books, even your own personal line drawings are great resources for Shadow Work.

Threads for Shadow Work can be any thread you are comfortable using, the thicker your thread the darker your shadow. Any sheer fabric can be used such as organdy, voile, batiste, fine linen or muslin, sheer silk, or even synthetic silk. Stitches you will need to know include:

So now you know all about Shadow Work’s history. Here on the silkribbon@yahoogroups mailing list we’re adding the challenge of using silk ribbon embroidery along with Shadow Work and I am sure the list will come up with many innovative ways. Whether using silk ribbon to create flowers that are pale like the shadows or bright bold colors that stand out in contrast, the designs that will be shown on our swap page will surely be delightful.